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Choosing a Plane

Your First Airplane

Control Line flying has many disciplines - Precision Aerobatics (Stunt), Combat, and Racing to name just a few. However, airplanes that are suitable for one of the various forms of competition aren't usually the best planes to learn Control Line flying with. Your first plane should be rugged, to withstand the inevitable crashes. It should be have simple construction so it's easy to build and repair. It should be relatively inexpensive so you won't worry about crashing (because you WILL crash). It should fly slowly enough to give you time to react, and it should be stable, not "twitchy."

The best thing to do is ask people in your club what they recommend. Of course, you may find that you get as many opinions as people you ask. Compare the different planes that are recommended. In general, a thicker wing will allow the plane to fly better at slower speeds. Planes with a longer tail moment tend to be less "twitchy." Watch what other people in the club are flying. How fast are they? Do they fly smoothly? Many clubs have members who keep a trainer or two on hand to let new people try before deciding what to get for their first plane. Something to keep in mind is that you're actually choosing a plane/engine combination. Too much engine can turn the most docile trainer into a fire breathing monster.

Size Matters

In Control Line flying, larger planes tend to fly better than smaller planes, so they don't crash as often. They fly on longer lines, so perceived speed is less and you're less likely to get dizzy. They handle wind better than the smaller planes. Another consideration is that smaller models won't take off of grass, so if your club's field is grass, they will need to be hand launched. On the other hand, larger planes are more expensive, so crashes are more costly.

.049 - .074

Commonly referred to as "Half A," airplanes in this category used to be the easiest and least expensive way to get started. Unfortunately, that is no longer the case. While kits are still plentiful, including reproductions of some classic designs, the same cannot be said for 1/2A engines. Cox, the former King of 1/2A, has been out of business for some time, likewise Norvel. Brodak makes 2 .049 designs and an .061, but production and availability is spotty. About the only place to find a 1/2A engine these days is on EBay.

In spite of the simplicity of 1/2A airplanes, I do not recommend them as a good starting point for beginners due to lack of engine availability. There are other disadvantages as well. They don't fly as well as larger airplanes, if you're flying over grass they have to be hand launched, and the equipment you will need to fly these won't work when you move on to larger airplanes. This is not to say that 1/2A planes aren't a lot of fun, just that they are not the best choice as a first control line model.

.15 - .19

Planes in this category typically have around 200 to 300 square inches of wing area and fly on 52 foot lines. The only kits I am aware of in this size range are Sig's Buster, Shoestring (both have solid balsa wings), and Acromaster, and a really nice P-51 kit from RSM Distribution. Engines are available from Fox and OS Max.

Planes in this size range suffer from some of the same limitations as the 1/2A airplanes. They fly on shorter lines (with resulting faster lap times), the required support equipment isn't compatible with larger airplanes, and they may have trouble taking off from grass. At the same time, they don't offer any advantages over larger airplanes. They cost just as much to build and fly, and are not any easier to build. For these reasons, I don't recommend airplanes in this size range as the ideal starting point for a beginner.

.20 - .25

This is the size range I would recommend for a first Control Line airplane. A good plane for this engine range will have about 400 square inches of wing area and flies on 60 foot lines. These planes are large enough to fly smoothly and usually have plenty of power and large enough wheels to take off of grass, and the support equipment required is compatible with larger airplanes if you decide to move up. Moving up might not be necesarry though, as some of these planes fly very, very well.

As for engines, your choices are the OS Max FP-20, OS Max LA-25, and Brodak 25. The FP-20 is no longer in production, but is fairly easy to find on EBay and the various Control Line Stunt forums. It provides an excellent, repeatable setup and is definitally worth the trouble of finding, especially if you plan on getting serious about flying Stunt. The LA-25 is available from Tower Hobbies, handles easily, and provides consistant engine runs. I don't have experience with the Brodak 25, but reviews are good. Availability seems spotty though.

Although several kits are available in this size range, the best one for beginners is the Sig Skyray. It is very easy to build, flies extremely well, and is available for less than $50.00. If you decide to start with this kit, I recommend you clone it as outlined here (as an alternative to cutting your own ribs, you could use the rib set from Brodak Shark 402 - the airfoil is almost identical). The Skyray with an LA-25 will give you an inexpensive combination that is easy to fly and is capable of the entire Stunt pattern as your skills improve.

.36 - .40 (.46)

If you don't want to start with a .25 powered airplane, I recommend one in the .36 to .46 size range. These airplanes will have 450 to 580 square inches of wing area and fly on 60 foot or longer lines. This size range has by far the largest selection of engines and kits available. Engines available include Evolution, Magnum, and Thunder Tiger .36's (later two require aftermarket venturi and NVA), Brodak .40, and OS Max LA-46. The LA-46 in particular has a reputation of being consistant, easy to handle, and offering a good Stunt run.

There are many kits available in this size range. In fact for a beginner, the biggest problem might be deciding what kit to start with. Don't start with a full bodied kit - they are more time consuming to build and more difficult to repair. Save yourself the grief and start with a profile kit. Three kits particularly good for someone starting out in Control Line are Sig's Banshee and Twister, and RSM's P-40 Tiger Profile. Others are available as well, but I have experience with these three and recommend them without hesitation.

Advantages over the .25 sized planes are greater engine and kit selection, and slightly better flight characteristics. Disadvantages are slightl higher cost and greater complexity - most planes in this size range have working flaps.

.51 - up

Models and engines in this category are big and expensive. Planes in this category can usually fly on 70 foot lines without any problem. Until a flier gets into expert Stunt or Scale, there is no good reason I can think of to build a model in this size range. In my opinion, a beginner would be much better served by a smaller plane.

Pay Your Money and Take Your Choice

Having said all that, my recommendation for a beginner's first plane is... to find a club and ask what they recommend. Chances are, the quality of help you receive will be better if the person helping you is familiar with the airplane you're going to be learning on. Mention that you are thinking along the lines of a Skyray or Banshee with appropriatly sized LA engine and see what they say.

If you can't find a club, I would recommend the Sig Skyray. They make a couple, get the one that is designed for .19 to .35 size engines. It is a good flying, rugged, easy to build ship. Bolt on an OS Max LA-25 and have fun!

Updated November 20, 2008

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